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We push past the colourful chaos and Frida Kahlo merchandise to find the city's tastiest tacos and the retailers breathing new life into classic crafts. Quesadillas sizzling on street corners outside cosy coffee shops; mariachi in sequined sombreros serenading late-night revellers; tower blocks casting long shadows over baroque churches and Aztec ruins studded with cacti. Mexico City simultaneously conforms to every stereotype and challenges every preconception with shameless self-assurance. Unconventional, ever-changing and utterly beguiling, this megalopolis is an endless parade of sights, sounds and smells. It somehow manages to feel intimate despite its gargantuan size but good guidance is still essential - and this is where the Monocle Travel Guide to Mexico City steps in. We lead you to our favourite mural-splashed buildings and the best places in which to practise your salsa - ending up in a dimly lit mezcal bar or two for good measure. If you're going to pay a visit to the Mexican capital, this is a good place to start. All that's left to do is dust off your dancing shoes and join the fiesta. Órale, amigos!